FAQs and Helpful Tips

We know many of our customers are interested in using sustainable products with minimal environmental impact. However, recycling information in New Zealand can be fragmented and complex. On this page, we aim to provide the most up-to-date information available to us, to the best of our knowledge, as it relates to our products. We hope this helps you make informed choices when selecting your packaging options.   Glass Most of our glass is recyclable kerbside in New Zealand. There are a few exceptions (most notably black glass, frosted glass, and our vial range), which are outlined below. You can also view the ‘Material’ section under each product to identify the glass type.   Glass Types Most of our glass is Soda Lime III, a kerbside-recyclable glass commonly used for consumable products such as juices and jams. A select range of our glass is borosilicate, which is not kerbside recyclable in New Zealand. Borosilicate glass is commonly used in scientific and laboratory applications, as it can withstand higher temperature fluctuations and is non-reactive with a wide range of chemicals. The majority of our borosilicate glass is found in our vial range.   Glass Colours For our Soda Lime III glassware, clear, amber, blue, green, and antique green are all recyclable.   Frosted Glass Frosted glass is currently not kerbside recyclable in New Zealand. This is because frosted glass is often made using non-recyclable glass types or coatings and is therefore typically rejected during sorting. The frosted glass supplied by Arthur Holmes is Soda Lime III and produced using an acid etching process rather than a coating. While it is technically recyclable, it is likely to be rejected during sorting due to the difficulty in distinguishing it from coated glass.   Black Glass Black or opaque glass is not kerbside recyclable. This is because sorting technology at recycling facilities cannot accurately identify the material due to the lack of transparency, resulting in it being rejected.   Plastics Plastic types currently accepted in kerbside recycling in New Zealand are: #1 PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) #2 HDPE (High-density Polyethylene) #5 PP (Polypropylene) Please check the ‘Materials’ section under each product for more information about its material composition.   Closures Lotion pumps, mist sprays, and droppers are not recyclable due to the multiple materials used in their construction. Caps are not accepted in kerbside recycling due to their small size, even when made from plastics #1, #2, or #5. Some supermarkets accept caps for recycling—please check locally for available services. You can also find further information from the Caps & Lids Recycling Scheme.   Bamboo Arthur Holmes does not supply bamboo caps or droppers. While these may appear to be a more sustainable option than plastic, they are typically lined with plastic. A fully plastic cap is more likely to be recyclable through a collection point, whereas mixed-material caps like bamboo and plastic have extremely limited or no recycling options.

If your product is carbonated or otherwise “active,” please refer to our Carbonated section under Shop By Use. Each product in this section includes a gas rating within the product description. It’s important to select a glass bottle with an appropriate rating, as this indicates the glass has been manufactured and tested to withstand the pressure that can build up once the bottle is sealed. Using a bottle without a suitable rating may result in breakage under pressure. If you’d like to arrange samples for testing, please contact our team.

Drip caps provide controlled dispensing, delivering oils one drop at a time. This is ideal for herbal extracts, health products, or essential oils designed to be used in small doses. A ‘slow drip’ is recommended for water-based solutions and aqueous products, while a ‘fast drip’ is better suited to oils and more viscous products. Drip caps differ from droppers, which feature a squeezable top and a glass pipette that sits inside the bottle to draw up and dispense the product. View drip caps in action below; View this post on Instagram A post shared by Arthur Holmes (@arthurholmes.nz)  

All our products are supplied clean but not sterile. We recommend thoroughly washing and sterilising all items prior to filling. Our Metal Twist caps can be heated to 100°C for a maximum of 30 minutes. Many food manufacturers use steam for sterilisation. At home, you can sterilise using heat by boiling or placing items in the oven. Caps can also be washed with hot, soapy water.

Melting Place a small amount of Beaded Bottle Sealing Wax into a melting pot. For small quantities a crock pot is suitable. Heat the wax gently until it begins to melt. Once a layer of liquid wax forms at the bottom of the pot, continue adding wax in stages until you have enough for dipping bottles. Use a thermometer to check the temperature before dipping. The ideal range is 78°C to 88°C, depending on the desired thickness. Note: Metallic colours should be stirred occasionally to prevent separation of pigments. Applying the wax Ensure bottles are tightly corked or capped and that there is no liquid residue on the neck. Lower the bottle vertically into the wax to the desired depth. The wax should extend far enough down the neck to create adequate coverage. Do not leave the bottle in the wax for too long. Remove the bottle at a slight angle to allow excess wax to drip back into the pot. Rotate the bottle continuously while lifting it out until dripping stops. Cooling Allow the wax to cool naturally for a satin finish. For a glossier finish, immediately dip the waxed bottle into cold water. Change the water regularly to keep it clean and cool. Removing Wax (To remove wax from dipped bottles) Make a diagonal cut in the wax from the bottom of the seal to the top edge. Lift the bottom edge and peel the wax away using your thumb. In most cases, the wax will remove in one piece. Troubleshooting Wax does not peel easily from bottle: Wax coating temperature may be too high. Colour appears faded: Wax may have been overheated. Bubbling at cap or cork seal: Air trapped in the cork or cap is expanding due to heat. To minimise this, hold the bottle in the wax until bubbling stops. Some natural corks are highly porous and may require a second coat for best results. For a second coat, ensure the first layer is fully cooled, then apply a quick dip. ESTIMATED WAX USAGE 8–10g per standard wine bottle (depending on depth of dip) 10–18g for magnum bottles INGREDIENT LIST Blend of paraffin and natural waxes (proprietary) Microcrystalline wax Ethyl vinyl acetate copolymer (proprietary) Fillers, pigments, and dyes (non-hazardous) IMPORTANT NOTICE The wax coating is for aesthetic purposes only. It does not create a product seal.

It is important to identify the jar thread type aswell as the diameter measurement when matching a cap.   1. MEASUREMENTS To determine the correct size match; Jars – measure the diameter across the top of the jar, including the thread. Caps/Lids – measure the inner diameter of the cap. It’s also important to consider the depth of the jar thread. Most common twist jars have a standard thread depth, while screw-finish jars can vary more widely. If the thread depth of the jar and cap are not correctly matched, a gap may occur between the top of the jar and the inside of the lid once applied. This can compromise the seal and lead to leaking.   2. THREAD TYPE There are many different neck ‘finishes’ that determine a bottle or jar’s compatibility with a closure. The most important factor to consider, especially when reusing bottles or jars at home, is the thread type. The ‘thread’ refers to the rings around the vessel’s neck that the cap secures onto. Twist jars – Defined by a broken thread (i.e. starting and stopping around the vessel neck). This style is most commonly found in grocery products such as jams, preserves, and olives. It requires a metal twist cap, which features ‘lugs’ that catch onto the thread segments. Screw jars – Defined by a continuous thread that runs all the way around the neck. This style is more common in cosmetics and requires a screw cap. The cap engages at the top of the thread and twists down to seal. These lid types are not cross-compatible, so it’s important to correctly identify what you have. Another type you may encounter is jars without any thread. These are typically designed for use with a metal gasket and clip-top closure, or sealed with a cellophane wrap. We do not supply closures for these types of vessels.   3. CHECKING THE FIT To assist is getting the right match you can bring your jars into store and check the fit of our caps on display.If you are not Wellington based then our team is able to assist over the phone, or arrange to send you samples for testing.   If you would like to learn more about replacing jar lids, we have a short video covering the information above, along with examples. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Arthur Holmes (@arthurholmes.nz)  

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Dip tubes are supplied at full length and may need to be cut to suit the height of your bottle. To size correctly, hold the mist spray or lotion pump alongside the bottle, aligning it with the neck thread. Trim the dip tube so it finishes at the base of the bottle. Cut the tube on a 45 degree angle. This helps ensure consistent liquid flow.

Filling When filling your product avoid getting any liquids on the rim, as this can create lubrication between the bottle/jar and closure. For oil-based products, a dry fill is recommended. Even if oil on the rim is wiped away, residue can remain and affect the closure over time, potentially causing the lid to loosen or “unwind.” It’s also important not to overfill your container. For more guidance, see our page “What is the correct fill point for a bottle?” Closures Some bottles/jars have many closure options to meet different needs: Wadded capsWadding refers to a liner inside the cap, often made from foam, that provides an additional barrier against air and leakage. It may be a separate insert or integrated into the cap as a built-in component.Wadding is recommended for liquids or products sensitive to air and moisture exposure. Plastic vs AluminiumAluminium closures are naturally malleable and can deform if over-tightened or impacted, which may compromise their seal.If your product is likely to be transported frequently or handled in transit, a plastic closure may offer more durability. DroppersFor oil-based products, we recommend using Dripulator bottles with the OV3 droppers. These are specifically designed for oils and preventing ‘unwind’ (see above under filling).   Metal Twist Caps See our page “Applying metal twist caps” for advice on creating a proper seal.

When filling your bottle, it’s important to allow space at the top, often referred to as the headspace. This is the gap between the product and the closure. As a general guide, the optimal fill level allows at least 4% headspace.• The capacity fill level guide is generally indicated on the product Specification Sheet, which you can request by contacting our team.• You may need to allow more headspace, depending on the filled product.   Why you shouldn’t overfill: Prevents leaks: Overfilling can cause product to be pushed out when the cap, pump, or spray is applied. Ensures proper sealing: Closures need space to seat correctly. Too much product can interfere with the seal. Allows for expansion: Liquids can expand with temperature changes, which may lead to leaking or pressure build-up if there is no headspace. Supports functionality: Pumps and sprays rely on internal components that require space to operate effectively.   Note: If you’re using with a dropper, or a closure with a diptube you’ll need to account for the space taken by the dropper/tube when inserted into the bottle. For the best indication of the appropriate fill level for your product and chosen bottle or jar, we recommend sample testing. Please contact our team to arrange a sample order.

Wadding refers to the “wad” fitted inside a cap. It sits between the closure and the bottle or jar opening, helping to form an additional airtight barrier when the cap is applied. It is often a separate foam liner or an integrated component built into the cap itself. Not all caps include or require wadding. Please refer to the individual product page for specific closure details and component information.   Why it’s important: Prevents leaks: The liner forms a barrier that helps stop liquid from escaping, especially during transport or handling. Improves sealing: It helps create a tighter, more consistent seal between the cap and the container. Protects contents: Wadding can help reduce exposure to air, moisture, and contaminants. Maintains product quality: For some products, it helps preserve freshness and shelf life. Supports compatibility: Different liner types are suited to different products, such as oils, liquids, or chemicals.